Rolex Royalty: GMT Master II vs. Submariner
Rolex is one of the most recognizable luxury brands in the world, and for good reason. They’re known for creating high-quality, durable, and iconic timepieces that last for generations. Among their most popular models, the Rolex GMT Master II and the Rolex Submariner stand out from the pack.
Both watches are what’s known as “tool watches,” meaning they were originally designed for specific professional uses. The Submariner was made for divers, and the GMT Master II was for pilots.
But which one is right for you? This article provides a comprehensive comparison of the two watches, highlighting their key differences and similarities to help you make an informed decision. So, let’s dive in and compare the GMT vs Submariner!
A brief history: From tool watches to icons
Both the Submariner and the GMT-Master II started out as tool watches, built to serve a specific function in diving and aviation, respectively. Over the years, they’ve become sought-after luxury items that still perform their original functions beautifully.
Rolex Submariner: Diving into history
The Submariner was designed and released in 1953 as a dive watch, water resistant to 100 meters. Some of the earliest models were the Reference 6204 and 6205.
Over the years, the Submariner evolved. Some key milestones are:
- The addition of crown guards in the 1960s (Reference 5512)
- The addition of a date function and cyclops magnifier (Reference 1680)
- An updated case size to 41mm in 2020
Rolex GMT-Master II: Conquering time zones
Rolex developed the GMT-Master in 1954 for Pan American Airways pilots, who needed to be able to track two time zones at once.
Key milestones in the evolution of the GMT-Master II include:
- The introduction of the GMT-Master II (Reference 16760) in 1983
- The redesign of the GMT-Master II (Reference 116710) in 2007
Design and Functionality: A Detailed Comparison
While both the GMT Master II and the Submariner are Rolex sports watches, they have different purposes, and that means they have key differences in design and functionality.
Bezel and Functionality
The Submariner has a unidirectional bezel marked in 60-minute graduations. This bezel is essential for divers who need to keep track of their underwater time to make sure they have enough air to return to the surface safely.
The GMT Master II, on the other hand, has a bidirectional bezel with a 24-hour scale. This bezel allows the wearer to track a second time zone. The GMT Master II bezels are often made of Rolex’s proprietary ceramic material, Cerachrom, and come in vibrant color combinations like “Pepsi” (red and blue), “Coke” (red and black), and “Batman” (blue and black).
Hands and Time Display
The Submariner has a simple three-hand display showing hours, minutes, and seconds. The design emphasizes legibility above all else.
The GMT Master II has four hands: hours, minutes, seconds, and a 24-hour GMT hand. The GMT hand points to the 24-hour bezel to display the second time zone.
Water Resistance
The Submariner is built for serious diving, offering superior water resistance, typically up to 300 meters (1000 feet).
The GMT Master II is water resistant to 100 meters (330 feet), making it fine for everyday wear and the occasional splash, but not suitable for diving.
Case and Bracelet
Both the Submariner and the GMT Master II often have a 40mm “super case.” Both watches are commonly fitted with Rolex’s Oyster bracelet, but the GMT Master II can sometimes be found with a dressier Jubilee bracelet.
Both watches feature Rolex’s Glidelock extension system, which allows for easy bracelet adjustments without tools.
Movement and Technical Specifications
Both the Submariner and the GMT Master II are known for their precision and reliability. Here’s a look under the hood.
Submariner Movements
For many years, the Submariner housed the Rolex Caliber 3135, a movement introduced in 1988. It’s known for being robust and reliable, a real workhorse.
Newer Submariner models (those made after 2020) have more recent movements.
GMT Master II Movements
Older GMT Master II models used the Caliber 3186 movement. Newer models have been upgraded with even more advanced technology.
Shared Features
Both the Submariner and the GMT Master II have these features in common:
- Automatic winding
- Approximately 48-hour power reserve
- Triplock crown for enhanced water resistance
These shared features contribute to the overall quality and dependability that Rolex is known for.
Vintage Models: A Collector’s Perspective
For collectors, the allure of vintage Rolex models is undeniable. Both the Submariner and the GMT-Master have produced iconic pieces that command high prices and are steeped in horological history.
Vintage Submariners
Some of the most sought-after vintage Submariners include the “Red Sub,” a Submariner with the model name printed in red on the dial. Other notable variations, like the “Bart Simpson” dial (named for the cartoon character due to the resemblance of the Rolex coronet), also attract collectors.
Key reference numbers for vintage Submariners include 5512, 5513, and 1680.
Vintage GMT-Masters
Early GMT-Master models featured bezels made of Bakelite, an early plastic that is prone to cracking over time. This fragility adds to their rarity and desirability. Notable dial variations include the “Pan Am” (referencing the airline for which the GMT-Master was originally designed) and the “Pussy Galore” (named after the Bond girl who wore a GMT-Master in Goldfinger).
Look for reference numbers like 1675, 16753, and 16758 when searching for a vintage GMT-Master.
Key Considerations for Collectors
If you’re thinking about collecting vintage Rolex watches, consider these points:
- Condition: The originality and overall condition of the watch are paramount in determining its value.
- Rarity: Specific dial variations, production years, or unique features can dramatically increase a watch’s value.
- Movement: Understanding the history of the watch’s movement and its serviceability are crucial for long-term ownership.
Modern vs. Vintage: A Quick Comparison
When you’re deciding between a modern and a vintage GMT-Master or Submariner, it’s helpful to think about what you value most in a watch.
Newer models tend to be more durable and are made with more cutting-edge materials and movements. Older watches, on the other hand, offer a certain undeniable charm and a connection to horological history. For example, most modern models feature Cerachrom (ceramic) bezels, while older models use aluminum or even Bakelite.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is a GMT better than a Submariner?
That depends entirely on your needs and preferences! The GMT-Master II is fantastic if you travel frequently and need to track multiple time zones. The Submariner, on the other hand, is the ultimate dive watch, built for underwater exploration. “Better” is subjective—it’s about which watch best suits your lifestyle.
Does a Rolex GMT hold its value?
Generally, yes. Rolex watches, including the GMT-Master II, are known for holding their value well, and often appreciating over time, particularly if they are well-maintained and in good condition. Limited edition or discontinued models can be especially valuable.
What is the hardest Rolex GMT to get?
Availability fluctuates, but historically, the stainless steel GMT-Master II models, especially those with the Cerachrom bezel (like the “Pepsi” or “Batman”), are notoriously difficult to acquire at retail. Waitlists can be extensive, and demand often exceeds supply.
What is the closest watch to a Submariner?
In terms of aesthetics and functionality, the Tudor Black Bay is often considered a close alternative to the Submariner. It offers a similar robust design, excellent water resistance, and a more accessible price point. Other options include the Omega Seamaster or the Seiko Prospex line.
Key Takeaways
The Rolex Submariner and the GMT Master II are both legendary timepieces, but they serve different purposes. The main differences come down to the bezel functionality, water resistance, and, of course, the GMT function that lets you track a second time zone.
Which one is “best” depends entirely on you. Consider your lifestyle. Do you travel frequently? Or spend a lot of time in or around water? What about your aesthetic preferences? Do you prefer a classic, understated look or something a bit bolder?
Ultimately, both the Submariner and GMT Master II are exceptional watches that showcase Rolex’s dedication to quality and innovation. If your budget allows, owning both might be the ideal solution, giving you the perfect watch for any occasion.