Tarantulas are becoming more and more popular as pets, and it’s easy to see why. Their unique appearance and relatively low-maintenance care make them fascinating additions to any hobbyist’s collection.
If there’s one tarantula that perfectly embodies everything that makes these creatures amazing, it’s the Green Bottle Blue Tarantula, scientifically known as Chromatopelma cyaneopubescens. The GBB is a standout species prized for its striking coloration – a vibrant mix of metallic blue legs, an orange abdomen, and a green carapace – and its captivating web-building behavior. The Green Bottle Blue tarantula is a good choice for both beginners and experienced keepers because it’s docile and hardy.
This guide will delve into everything you need to know about Chromatopelma cyaneopubescens care, including housing requirements, feeding habits, breeding tips, and more.
Remember, responsible tarantula keeping is crucial. Captive breeding plays a vital role in the conservation of these incredible creatures, helping to reduce the demand for wild-caught specimens. So, if you’re ready to embark on the journey of caring for a Green Bottle Blue tarantula, let’s get started!
Taxonomy, Etymology, and Natural Habitat
Let’s take a closer look at the Chromatopelma cyaneopubescens, including its scientific classification, where the name comes from, and where it lives in the wild.
Taxonomy and Etymology
The scientific name for the greenbottle blue tarantula breaks down like this:
- Genus: Chromatopelma
- Species: cyaneopubescens
The word cyano means blue, and pubescens means downy or hairy. Together, these words paint a picture of the spider’s striking coloration.
Natural Habitat
The GBB is native to Venezuela, where it thrives in semi-arid conditions. It’s adapted to its environment in ways we don’t fully understand, and ongoing research is exploring the genetic factors behind its blue pigmentation and its unique behavioral adaptations.
What does a Chromatopelma cyaneopubescens look like?
The Greenbottle Blue Tarantula, or GBB, is named for its striking coloration. As spiderlings, they have a metallic blue sheen. As they mature, they develop a vibrant green carapace, bright blue legs, and an orange abdomen. The exact shades can vary slightly, and freshly molted spiders will exhibit the most intense colors.
GBBs are a medium-sized species. Their bodies grow to about 2.75 inches (7 cm) long, and their diagonal leg span reaches around 6.25 inches (16 cm).
In terms of behavior, GBBs are primarily terrestrial, though they do exhibit semi-arboreal tendencies, often creating elaborate web structures in the higher reaches of their enclosures. Like many New World tarantulas, they possess urticating hairs, specifically Types III and IV. These hairs are located on their abdomen and can be kicked off as a defense mechanism, causing irritation to the skin or mucous membranes.
Housing and Enclosure Setup
The Green Bottle Blue is a hardy and beautiful species, and with the proper setup, they can thrive in captivity.
Enclosure Size
The size of the enclosure depends on the spider’s age. For spiderlings, choose a small enclosure that’s about three times the spider’s leg span. As they grow into juveniles, you’ll want to move them into an intermediate-sized enclosure. Adults need a larger enclosure, preferably one with a horizontal rectangle shape to give them room to roam.
Whatever size you choose, it’s important to have secure ventilation to keep the air fresh and a tight-fitting lid to keep your spider from escaping.
Substrate
The substrate is the material that lines the bottom of the enclosure. There are a few options that work well for GBBs. Terra Aranea from The Bio Dude is a popular choice, or you can make your own mixture of coco fiber, peat moss, and vermiculite.
The substrate serves two main purposes: It allows the spider to burrow, and it helps retain humidity in the enclosure.
Decor and Enrichment
GBBs like to have places to hide and things to climb on. Cork bark and driftwood make good hides, and a shallow water dish is essential. You can also add branches or plants (artificial or live) to give them opportunities to spin their webs.
It’s important to create a semi-arboreal environment for your GBB, meaning they need both ground space and climbing opportunities. They’ll use both, so make sure to provide a variety of options.
Temperature and Humidity
GBBs do best in temperatures ranging from 68°F to 76°F (20°C to 24°C). You can use heat mats or heat lamps to maintain these temperatures. But be careful! Always use thermostats and monitor conditions closely. Too much heat can be deadly.
These guys like it relatively dry. You want to avoid damp conditions at all costs. I usually mist one side of the enclosure lightly to give them a little humidity. But that’s it.
Good airflow is also essential. Stale, stagnant air can create a breeding ground for bacteria and fungus. Make sure your enclosure has plenty of ventilation to keep your GBB happy and healthy.
Feeding and Diet
Your Chromatopelma cyaneopubescens isn’t too picky when it comes to food. Here’s what you need to know about keeping your little buddy fed and healthy.
Prey Items
These tarantulas will happily eat crickets, roaches, mealworms, and other commercially available feeder insects. To give your tarantula an extra nutritional boost, “gut-load” the prey items by feeding them nutritious foods for a day or two before offering them to your spider. You might give the crickets bits of fruits, vegetables, or even commercial gut-loading diets.
Feeding Schedule
The feeding schedule will depend on your tarantula’s age. Here’s a general guideline:
- Spiderlings: Twice a week
- Juveniles: Every 7-10 days
- Adults: Every 2-3 weeks
Prey size is also important. Spiderlings should be offered small crickets or roaches. Juveniles can handle larger prey items. Adults can eat appropriately sized crickets or roaches. You’ll want to make sure the prey items aren’t larger than the tarantula’s body.
Feeding Techniques
For successful feedings, remove any uneaten prey after 24 hours. It’s also important to monitor your tarantula’s abdomen size. If the abdomen is noticeably wider than the carapace (the top part of the body), you’re feeding too much. If the abdomen is thinner than the carapace, you may want to offer food more frequently or provide larger prey items.
Water
Always provide fresh water in a shallow dish. This is especially important for spiderlings, as they can dehydrate quickly. Make sure the water dish is shallow enough that the tarantula can easily climb out if it falls in.
Behavior and Temperament
Green Bottle Blue Tarantulas are active hunters, which makes them fun to watch. They’re also known for their elaborate webbing. They’ll cover everything in their enclosure with it!
As far as temperament goes, GBBs are generally considered docile. However, they can be pretty skittish and fast-moving. For this reason, most keepers don’t handle them. It’s too easy to accidentally drop them, and that can hurt the spider.
Like many New World tarantulas, GBBs have urticating hairs they can kick off as a defense mechanism. These hairs are Type III and IV, which means they’re pretty irritating to human skin. Be careful when you’re rehousing or doing maintenance on your GBB’s enclosure. You don’t want to get a face full of tarantula hairs!
The Green Bottle Blue Tarantula is celebrated for its brilliant blue coloration and extensive webbing.
Molting
Like all tarantulas, Chromatopelma cyaneopubescens shed their exoskeletons in a process called molting. Molting allows them to grow and regenerate lost limbs. During a molt, a tarantula will essentially climb out of its old skin.
Before a molt, you might notice your GBB’s abdomen getting darker. They’ll usually refuse food and become less active. This is called “premolt.”
During a molt, it’s crucial to maintain proper humidity in the enclosure to help the tarantula shed successfully. Never disturb a tarantula while it’s molting. They are very vulnerable at this time. The process can take several hours.
After the molt, don’t offer food right away. The tarantula’s fangs and new exoskeleton need time to harden. Wait a week or so before offering prey. Remove the old exoskeleton from the enclosure.
Breeding Chromatopelma cyaneopubescens
So, you’re thinking about breeding your Chromatopelma cyaneopubescens? It can be a rewarding experience, but it’s important to do your research and be prepared.
Sexual Maturity and Pairing
First, you’ll need to determine if your tarantulas are sexually mature. Males typically mature in 2-3 years, while females take a bit longer, usually 4-6 years. A mature male will have tibial hooks (spurs on their front legs) and palpal bulbs (enlarged tips on their pedipalps, which look like small legs near their mouth).
Once you have a mature male and a receptive female, carefully introduce the male into the female’s enclosure.
Mating Process
The mating ritual can be quite fascinating. The male will often drum or tap on the substrate to attract the female’s attention. It’s crucial to supervise the mating process closely to ensure the female doesn’t become aggressive towards the male.
Egg Sac Production and Incubation
If mating is successful, the female will create an egg sac. These sacs typically contain 100-200 eggs, although some can hold up to 300! You have a couple of options for incubation: you can leave the egg sac with the mother, or you can incubate it artificially.
If you choose artificial incubation, you’ll need to create a suitable environment with the right temperature and humidity. Expect the first instar spiderlings to emerge in about 6-8 weeks.
Raising Spiderlings
Caring for newly hatched spiderlings requires small enclosures and appropriately sized prey. Fruit flies or pinhead crickets are good options for their first meals. Be patient and diligent, and you’ll be rewarded with a new generation of beautiful Greenbottle Blue tarantulas!
Common Problems and Health Issues
Provided that you give your Chromatopelma cyaneopubescens a proper enclosure, you shouldn’t run into many health issues. But it’s a good idea to watch out for:
- Dehydration. Make sure your spider always has access to fresh water.
- Injuries from falls. Keep the enclosure low to the ground, and provide plenty of anchor points to prevent falls.
- Parasites. These are rare in captive tarantulas, but always quarantine a new spider before introducing it to its permanent enclosure.
Regularly monitoring your C. cyaneopubescens will help you catch any issues early.
Putting It All Together
If you’re looking for a tarantula that’s easy to care for, beautiful to look at, and hardy enough to handle beginner mistakes, you can’t go wrong with a Chromatopelma cyaneopubescens. While they are often recommended for beginner tarantula keepers, these spiders can be a fascinating addition to any collection.
With their striking colors and webbing habits, GBBs are a joy to watch and care for. Just remember to practice responsible tarantula keeping, and consider supporting conservation efforts to protect these amazing creatures in their natural habitats.
Let’s be real: the Green Bottle Blue Tarantula is simply the best pet tarantula you can own. Period.