Want a specific haircut? Haircut numbers are the secret language you need to know to get exactly what you want.
These numbers tell your barber what length of clipper guard to use, and that determines how short your hair will be. But let’s be honest, the numbering system can be confusing.
That’s why we’ve put together this guide. We want to take the mystery out of haircut numbers so you can confidently communicate with your barber and walk away with the perfect cut, every time.
Decoding the Haircut Number System
If you’ve ever been to a barber or stylist, you may have heard them talking about “a number 2” or “fading up to a 4.” What they’re talking about is the haircut number system, which corresponds to the size of the clipper guard they’re using.
What Haircut Numbers Represent
Clipper guards attach to the hair clippers and determine how much hair the clippers will cut. If you want to cut your hair to a half-inch, you’d use a number 4 clipper guard. If you want to cut it to a quarter of an inch, you’d use a number 2.
Typically, the numbering system ranges from 0 to 8, although you can sometimes find clippers with guards like 0.5 or 1.5, which let you fine-tune the length of the cut.
The higher the number, the longer the hair. The lower the number, the shorter the hair.
The Role of Clipper Guards
Clipper guards are designed to create a consistent hair length across your head. The guard acts as a spacer, preventing the clipper blades from cutting too close to the scalp.
If you’re cutting your own hair, it’s important to use quality clipper guards. Cheap or damaged guards can lead to uneven cuts and inconsistent lengths.
Haircut Numbers and Their Corresponding Lengths
If you’re thinking about trying a clipper cut, it’s helpful to know what the different numbers mean. Here’s a quick guide to haircut numbers and the length of hair they leave behind:
Number 0
The number 0 is as short as you can go with clipper guards. It leaves about 1/16 of an inch (1.5mm) of hair and is often used for skin fades or bald fades, in which the hair tapers down to the skin.
Number 1
A number 1 guard leaves about 1/8 inch (3mm) of hair. It’s still a very short cut, but it’s a bit longer than a shaved head.
Number 2
With a number 2 guard, you’ll have about 1/4 inch (6mm) of hair. This is a popular choice for people who want a short, easy-to-manage cut.
Number 3
A number 3 clipper guard leaves about 3/8 inch (10mm) of hair. The look is neat and clean, and the length works well for many different styles.
Numbers 4-8
Here’s what you can expect from the longer clipper guard numbers:
- Number 4: 1/2 inch (13mm) – This is the length that’s often used for a crew cut.
- Number 5: 5/8 inch (16mm) – This length is ready for a taper.
- Number 6: 3/4 inch (19mm) – Hair this long can be styled or left to do its own thing.
- Number 7: 7/8 inch (22mm) – This length is ideal for a full crew cut.
- Number 8: 1 inch (25mm) – This is the longest of the standard clipper guards.
These numbers are good for longer styles, giving you more options for styling your hair.
How to use haircut numbers to get a fade
A “fade” is a haircut where the hair gradually gets shorter as it goes down the head, typically starting long on top and ending very short at the nape of the neck.
To create a fade, barbers use different clipper guard numbers on different parts of the head. For example, they might use a #4 on top, a #3 in the middle, and a #2 at the bottom to create a smooth transition.
There are several styles of fades:
- Skin fade: The hair fades all the way down to the skin.
- Low fade: The fade starts low on the head, near the ears and neckline.
- Mid fade: The fade begins in the middle of the head.
- High fade: The fade starts high up on the head.
Barbers also use the taper lever on the clippers to fine-tune the fade. The taper lever adjusts the blade length for even smoother transitions between the different haircut numbers.
What to consider before choosing a haircut number
The haircut number you choose should depend on a few key factors:
Hair Type and Texture
Not all hair is created equal. Fine, thin hair will behave differently than thick, coarse hair. Straight hair will fall differently than wavy or curly hair. The right haircut number will depend on how your hair naturally behaves.
Face Shape
Some haircuts naturally complement certain face shapes. Consider what haircut numbers will best enhance your features.
Lifestyle and Maintenance
Do you want a low-maintenance style, or are you willing to spend time styling your hair each day? Also, remember that shorter styles often require more frequent trips to the barber to maintain their shape.
How to talk to your barber
Talking to your barber is the most important part of getting the right haircut. You can use haircut numbers to explain how short you want your hair to be in different places.
It can also help to bring pictures of haircuts you like. Your barber will be able to tell you if that cut will look good with your hair type, texture, and face shape. If not, they can suggest something similar that will.
To Conclude
The numbers used for haircuts can feel like a secret code, but understanding them is key to getting the cut you want. When you know what the numbers mean, you can clearly communicate with your barber and achieve the look you’re going for.
Don’t be afraid to experiment with different haircut numbers to find your perfect style. Whether you prefer a close crop or a longer, more textured look, there’s a number (or combination of numbers!) that will help you get there.
And remember, regular trims are essential for maintaining a well-groomed appearance, no matter what number you choose.